Monday, June 9, 2008

Going Home

The decision to leave Nepal was made in a hurry. My Visa was expiring and could not be further extended. The best thing to do is go back to America, and return after I took care of some business.

The flights out of the country were booked with Nepalis looking for work in other countries. It was difficult to find an empty seat, but on the last day of my Visa, Gulf Air agreed to take me out of Nepal. I got to the airport in Kathmandu 3 hours early, as required for international flight, and was told my flight was 4 hours late. I checked in and prepared to wait. Fortunately, I had a fresh book of Sudoku puzzles and could occupy the time. The airline provided a free meal for everyone on the flight, so we all lined up at the only restaurant at the airport, for a typical Nepali meal of steamed rice, lentil soup, and curried vegetables.

About 2 minutes before midnight, the aircraft arrived, and we soon were boarded, on our way to Bahrain. When we arrived there, I had missed my connection to London, so the airline put me in a hotel room so I could sleep for a few hours. Bahrain is strictly desert, although it is on the Arabian Sea. It's a resort and vacation area for the middle east, and must have at least 2000 hotels, building more every day. It reminded me of Las Vegas, without the casinos. The hotel I stayed at (Al Fahir) was posh elegant. There is obviously a lot of money in this town. My room was spacious and well-appointed. I slept for 5 hours, then went down to the hotel restaurant for lunch. Their buffet was delicious: fresh greek salad, humus and pita, olives and fruit, chicken and lamb, rice (steamed and fried), and decadent cakes for dessert. After living on Nepali food for 6 months, it was uplifting to have something different.

Leaving Bahrain, I went to London, and again missed my connection to America. Again, I was put into a hotel, and slept some more. Our flight arrived around 10:00 at night, and most of the airport workers had gone home for the day. When I returned around 7:00 the next morning, the airport workers were still not around, most of the ticket counters were closed. I began to worry about my checked luggage. The people who stamp your passport when you leave the country were not yet at work, so I did not get my passport stamped. I wonder if they realize I have left the country?

I arrived at Oklahoma City after 3 days of travel, but my luggage was nowhere to be found. We talked to the Baggage Service guy, who told me "Your bags are not lost. They just haven't arrived yet." He figured they were caught in the London Triangle. Four days later, a courier rang my doorbell, delivering my suitcases.

Friday, May 16, 2008

House Lizards

Friendly lizards (geckos) come inside the house, looking for bugs. They amazingly cling to the ceiling and walls, moving rapidly and as easily as if along the floor. The doors and windows are not airtight, and the lizards find places to squeeze into a room. As the temperature rises, they become more active. They are considered good luck, so no one tries to get rid of them. If you try to catch one, they will lose their tail.

They must be territorial, because I have only seen 2 specific lizards in my room. Carl has noticed 3 in his, but his room is larger. I have named mine "Orville" and "Wilbur". They are about 5 inches long. They don't like the light, and when I have tried to take a flash photo of them, they scamper into hiding. Sometimes they make a clicking sound, but otherwise, they are silent.

One night I lay sleeping lightly, the rattling window air-conditioner was barely keeping up with the hot sticky air. The ceiling fan was on, and a light sheet defended me from the draft. Suddenly, I heard a faint noise and felt a plop on my hip. Freaking out, I shook the sheet, and in the moonlight I saw a lizard sailing through the air, arms and toes outstretched in terror. I heard him land on the floor, then silence. I pulled the sheet over my head and tried to go to sleep.

The next morning, there was no sign of lizard. By the afternoon, however, 2 lizards were chasing each other across the wall, undamaged. I guessed one of them had been on the ceiling and fell asleep when he lost his grip. They say it is bad luck to be hit by a lizard -- I wonder if this counts?

The last few days, I have spotted a couple of baby lizards, each about 2 inches long. As long as they eat the mosquitoes, they are welcome to stay.

My Flight Physical

A lightning storm took out our internet, and we just got it back yesterday. Progress moves slowly in Nepal.

CAAN (Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal) informed me a couple of weeks ago that my medical certificate has expired. In the States, it is good for a year, but here, since I am over 40, it's only good for 6 months.

So off I went to Kathmandu to get a physical. There have never been pilots in any other part of the country, so there has been no need for flight doctors anywhere but Kathmandu. Shivendra says I should be able to easily complete the physical and be back the next day. Nothing ever goes as planned, so I pack an extra shirt and pair of underwear.

I arrived at my appointment to see the doctor at 4:00. The doctor, a nice older gentlemen, looked over the letter authorizing me to get the medical, asked me for my medical forms. "What medical forms?" I asked. Before starting the exam, I must provide the CAAN forms. The doctor does not keep a supply on hand.

An appointment is made for 10:00 the next morning, and someone is sent to the CAAN office to obtain the forms. Why didn't they give us the forms when they gave us the authorization letter? Why do you need authorization to get a physical exam?

Nepal is considered a Kingdom, although the king is under house arrest, has no power, and will soon be kicked out to live "a civilian life". Meanwhile, no one is in charge, be everyone wants to prove how powerful they are by creating obstacles. The more obstacles, the more power.

The next morning, the doctor took my pulse, blood pressure, height and weight. He measured my weight on an old bathroom scale that wasn't set to zero. I took off my shoes and stepped on. The scale stopped at 75kg. That's over 160 pounds. I do not weigh that much. Not even close. The doctor didn't seem to think it unusual, and wrote '75k' on the form. Whatever. At least he got my height correct.

He filled out one section of the form, then told me I was to take an eye exam. Another doctor. I passed the exam, with my glasses. "What is your correction?" he asked. I wasn't sure. He looked at my lenses and informed me that I can't have a correction greater than +5.00 to pass a flight medical. He was unable to read my lenses, so he referred me to another doctor to obtain my exact prescription.

So off I go to an eye doctor in another part of town. He is with another patient. I sit and wait. There is no waiting room - I am in the same room as the doctor and his patient. The eye chart is on the wall. I quickly memorize it. "How long have you been flying?" he asked. 30 years. He figures I can fly OK with whatever prescription I have and OK's my eyesight. He signs the vision section of the form.

Back to the hospital to see the Ear-Nose-Throat doctor. He is gone for the day, must come back tomorrow. While I am there, however, they take my blood.

That evening I walk around the Thamel section of Kathmandu and run into a couple of Americans. We meet for dinner at a really good Thai restaurant and have an interesting conversation.

The next day, I wait for a call confirming my appointment with the ENK doctor. Around noon I get a call - the appointment is at 4:00. At that time, I go back to the clinic and only have to wait about half-an-hour. The ENK exam took about 3 minutes. Another section of the form was signed off. Then it was decided I needed a chest X-ray. Would I like to wait for the results? Yes. Lungs and ribs looked normal. Oh, by the way, I need an EKG. I get that done, and I am finally complete.

The next day I return to Bharatpur, while the results and forms are submitted to CAAN. (Why do they need the medical data? There is no medical privacy in Nepal.)

A couple of days later, I was informed I didn't have enough tests. I must go back to Kathmandu. I am not sure if the Doctor was confused about what tests to prescribe, or if CAAN arbitrarily decided to change the rules (as they often do). The result is the same.

I am on the next flight to Kathmandu, as I have an appointment at 4:00 that afternoon. (What is it with 4:00 appointment times?)

At the clinic, the doctor has not arrived. I wait for an hour. He looks over my forms and results, and realizes I need the "over 40" tests. No eating or drinking past midnight. I need to return tomorrow with an empty stomach. 10:00.

I arrive the next morning. Starving. They take my blood again, this time testing for cholesterol. I would have to return later for the results. (My cholesterol was 'optimal').

I am informed I need a treadmill test and another ECG. They can't do that here, so we have to make an appointment at another hospital. You guessed it - 4:00. No eating at least 3 hours before.

I eat a light lunch, then wait around the Shivani Air office (mostly napping) until it's time to go.

I arrive at what is called "the best private hospital in Nepal". It's clean. And expensive. These tests cost more than 10,000 rupees. I am told to change into a gown. The women's changing room in down the hall. After changing, I walk back down the hall and sit in the crowded waiting area. In a hospital gown. After about half-an-hour, the cardiologist arrives and I am ushered into the treadmill room. There are three beds and 2 treadmills. A man is lying in one of the beds, and I am instructed to lie down in another. People enter the room, patients waiting their turn, nurses, orderlies. No privacy.

The doctor takes a sonogram of my heart - very interesting. "A normal young heart", he says. Young? I am 55, but maybe it looks good compared to Nepali hearts.

Next, I am hooked up to the treadmill. Walk for 9 minutes, at different speeds for 3 minutes each. Let them know if I feel any pain or discomfort. I complete the test. I am breathing hard. "I could not do this test for 9 minutes," the doctor says. He is about 35-40, nice looking, not overweight. Is he kidding? I can't tell. I passed.

I head back to the original clinic to pick up my blood test, then stop at CAAN to drop everything off. Everyone is in a meeting. I leave the stuff with the Shivani Air people, and catch the next flight home. They will let me know if I am qualified in a couple of days. I passed all the tests with flying colors, so I am not sure what CAAN can object to. I am still waiting.

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

Election Day

For the first time, Nepal is having elections today. It has taken 10 years of civil war, violence, confusion, and corruption to get to this point. Most people don't understand what they are voting for. Some think it is for a president, but it is not. The elections are only to decide which of the nearly 60 political parties will be chosen to carve the new government. There are 7 main parties, and it is certain that they will be represented. It is almost as certain that the monarchy will be abolished and Nepal be transformed into a federation.

Many people have died up to this point, and more will probably die after the election. Candidates were kidnapped and killed, voters were intimidated, despite the efforts of international election watchers. Riots broke out in Kathmandu, and in the far west and far east of Nepal.

Here in centrally located Bharatpur, things are peaceful. There are no cars, buses, or trucks on the roads. Only pedestrians and bicycles. Most of the shops are closed. Only a few local corner markets are open - families who can't afford to take a day off. The larger schools in town are the polling places. Crowds or people are hanging outside the school gates, waiting to vote, waiting to see what happens, and watching to see what goes on. The people in Bharatpur are very interested in the outcome, but don't seem to be as worked up about it as other areas in Nepal.

Everyone at the school has gone to their homes. Most live in other areas of Nepal, and can only vote in their registered area of residence. There is no absentee voting. The highways are closed. The borders have been closed since noon on the 8th. We think the airplanes are at the border, but they can't cross until the border opens - probably in a couple of days.

No one knows what the elections will really bring - whether anything will change. Some parties promise food and shelter for everyone, but have done nothing in the past to give their words credibility. Everyone hopes this will end the decade-long slide backwards in time and bring Nepal into the present. Prosperity would be nice, but no one expects Nepal to stop being a third-world country.

Sunday, April 6, 2008

Sanjog

Things change slowly but happen fast around here. Yesterday Shivendra arrived from Kathmandu and got me updated on what is happening. The aircraft should be at the border by the 8th, and Shivendra will personally make sure they go through. CAAN is coming to Bharatpur to give the written test sometime after the Nepali New Year (April 13th). The students are skeptical.

About a month ago I decided to buy a bicycle. We have a truck that will come and pick me up at the house, but it is also used to pick up everyone else. I can't come and go when I need. We have a motorcycle, but it is heavy for me, and in this traffic, I feel I am putting my life in my hands when I ride it. A bicycle goes at a sane pace, can maneuver around obstacles, and is good exercise.

"Who is the best negotiator," I asked. Whenever I buy something here, everyone asks how much I paid. No matter what I say, they tell me I paid too much and that a local could get it much cheaper. So I decided to ask one of the students to help me.

Sanjog seemed to be the best candidate. "He negotiates everything," someone said. "I hate to go shopping with him," said another, "because he argues every price."

Normally keeping to himself, I had not seen that side of him, but I trusted what the other students said. So Sanjog and I took the truck and driver (Prakesh) around to every bicycle shop in town.

"These bikes are too cheap," Sanjog would tell me. "They want too much money. They won't negotiate," he would say at another shop.

We came to one shop with several bikes out front and Sanjog went inside to talk to the owner. After five minutes of intense discussion, he came out and pointed at a pink bicycle. "Do you like that one?"

I cringed. Pink is definitely not my color. I pointed to a large forest green one. "No," said Sanjog. "That is a man's bike. You would not like that one." OK, I thought. I pointed to a black bicycle decorated with orange flames.

Sanjog went back into the shop and talked to the owner some more. Another five minutes later he came out and said, "Let's go." We walked away, not looking back. I asked what happened. "Wait," was all he said.

We walked to another bike shop, and he talked to the owner there. After about 15 minutes he came out and signaled for me to follow him. We walked back to the first bike shop. The owner was ready to deal.

Within minutes, pedals were put onto the black bike. A bell was added (required in Nepal), and the seat was lowered. "No," I said. "Leave the seat high." "No," said Sanjog, "you must ride with the seat down."

Nepalis ride their bike sitting up straight, with the seat low enough that they can touch the ground while sitting. I am used to the American style, where seat height can give you leverage for pedaling, and you lean the bike over when you stop.

Sanjog said to me, "3800 rupees." "Is that good?" I asked. "Yes. Down from 4500."

I gave Sanjog the money, and he handed it to the owner. Prakesh loaded the bike in the back of the truck, and we drove home.

It's good to have wheels.

Monday, March 17, 2008

Calling the Boss

Calling our boss in Kathmandu is a challenge. We can't make long distance calls from the hangar or our house. Sometimes Cathy can call Kathmandu on her cell phone. The reception is so poor, that she requests Shivendra to call us back. If she can't get through, we call the School and have them call Kathmandu and tell them to call us. It takes about 10-15 minutes to finally get connected.

We try to contact Kathmandu at least once a day to get updated on various events. The students have not taken their written exam yet. Maybe tomorrow. Yes, we like the new cook, so Shivendra will inform him of his salary. (Imagine starting a job not knowing what you will be paid!) Where are the aircraft? What new things have CAAN come up with for us to perform?

We discovered that the CAAN person in charge will be out of office at the end of next month. He has been giving everyone a hard time, including the airlines. He has been a big roadblock for our progress and on getting the aircraft fixed. He has also decided all our aircraft need ADFs. I am not sure when they will fit.

Saturday, March 15, 2008

How to Run a Flight School

Our aircraft is still grounded and untouched. We are not allowed to fix anything, or even look at the airplane until the insurance company releases it. This could take months. The home office is in Singapore. We have a run-out engine which we sent to India to be overhauled. By the time the engine comes back, we should have a new prop and nose gear. Soon after that, the airplane will be ready to go.

We have 2 other aircraft coming in. They were in Singapore on the 10th, and are expected to be in Calcutta by the 18th. They will be here by the 21st, and soon after that, we will be flying again.

The students are in Kathmandu taking their written exam. We hope. They were scheduled to take it last Monday, but when they showed up, CAAN (Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal) did not have the questions prepared yet. CAAN had told our boss two weeks previous that the questions were ready to go. I guess not. Now they have said that they are ready, and the students are scheduled to take it this afternoon. We are keeping our fingers crossed.

The CAAN people are appointed by the Minister of Tourism, Culture, and Civil Aviation, not for their expertise, but for their contacts and influence. Therefore, most of them have no idea of what to do. They don't seem to want to become educated on the subject of aviation or flight schools, and make arbitrary rules.

We had a very experienced instructor scheduled to come over. Every instructor must be approved by CAAN before they are allowed to teach in Nepal. Yesterday, they made a new rule that prohibits an instructor aged 65 or older. Our new instructor just turned 65, and is highly disappointed he can't come. He turned down a high=paying job offer for the chance to come here, and now they won't let him come.

All of Nepal is subject to scheduled power outages. This includes the airport. When the tower expects a flight in, and there is no electricity, they turn on the battery back-up to run the radios. Fortunately, they only have 3 or 4 flights a day. The Tower Chief has permission to get the electricity permanently hooked up, but is waiting for CAAN to give him the Rs 400,000 to give to the Power Ministry. They are all government agencies, but nothing runs efficiently here. The Tower Chief was told it will happen soon. In Nepal, that means in a month or so.

Sunday is a regular work day here. Saturday is the only day off each week. There are plenty of holidays, however, and Nepal has recently recognized 18 more holidays each year. I am not sure how many days off per year there are, but it's a lot - at least 4 or 5 days per month. Some holidays are better than others, depending on how it affects our job. We have learned to be flexible. Time to spare, go by air.

The weather has turned warm. Around the low 70s at night, and in the mid-90s during the day. The humidity is around 50%. We still have a lot of haze, unusual for this time of year. Only one real rain storm so far. A month ago, I was shivering, and now I am sweating. Is is better to be hot or cold? I think I like hot better.