New Year's Eve

All the hotels, restaurants, and bars in the area are getting ready for the New Year's celebration. My hotel has a whole roasted pig out front - quite a sight. The potted plants are decorated with cotton, dirty from the dust and pollution, to simulate snow. A Christmas tree stands in the courtyard, like a sentinel at the gate. The have hired a local musician, who plays guitar and sings American pop and Nepali folk equally off-key.

I walked around Kathmandu today, but haven't taken a single photo. Each time I bring out my camera, I am surrounded by beggars and merchants. There are other westerners around, and they also are approached. There are many fascinating shrines, temples, and architecture, but so many people crowd the streets that it is hard to get a clear picture. I rang the bell at one temple, and spun a couple of prayer wheels at another (that's for you, Nicole!).

Most of the streets are narrow, and filled with people walking, on bicycles, motorocycles, pedicabs, and 2-way car traffic. I have not seen any accidents, but I imagine they must have many here.

I pause in front of a store window, and immediately hear "Namaste, madam." "Something for your family, madam." "You would like to buy, madam. We have many colors and sizes." "Please, madam, I am hungry and need milk for the baby". ""Would you like someone nice?" Hashish?"

I have resorted to answering in Russian, hoping no one understands. Ya nye ponimayoo. I don't understand. Ya nye govoreet Nepali. I don't speak Nepali. They give up and go away.

The tourist area of Kathmandu is a little tiring, but in other parts of town, it is a bustling big city, much like any other.

K-K-K-K-K-K-K-Kathmandu

Yesterday I came to Kathmandu. I had been driving everyone pretty hard, so they begged me to take some time off for the New Year. I have not seen much of Nepal other than the little town of Bharatpur, and I wanted to do some shopping.

The 11:45 Buddha Air flight was 2 hours late. They require that you arrive 1 hour early, so the other passengers and I spent quiet moments in the sun reading and waiting. I did not bring any food with me, as the flight is only 20 minutes, and I became quite hungry.

The 18 passengers finally boarded the modified Beechcraft KingAir. I sat right behind the pilots and got to see what they were doing and saw a great view out the front window. The flight attendant closed the door as the engines started, then handed out candy and cotton balls. The cotton is for your ears - the aircraft is very noisy.

One pilot flew the airplane, and the other handled the radios and lights. We climbed over the Annapurna mountains to 9500 feet, then glided into the clouds. We couldn't see anything around us. The pilot banked the plane and began to descend to 5500. Out of the mist appeared the Kathmandu airport -- on top of a small hill surrounded by many larger hills. I can't wait to bring my students here! When pilot made a perfect landing, the other applauded him.

After landing, I grabbed a cab to take me to the hotel. The Shivani Air hangar crew had made hotel arrangements for me before I left. I guess they wanted to make sure I left town. I was told the cab fare should be about Rs300, but all the drivers quoted Rs400. "The price of gas is very high now." They are right - the price has risen a lot recently. They pay about Rs80 per liter (over $5 per gallon).

I checked into the Hotel Mandap, in the heart of the Thamel district of Kathmandu. This is the main shopping area, and the most popular for westerners. I walked down to the restaurant and ordered grilled chicken and chips (french fries) and steamed vegetables. And 2 Cokes. It was 3:00. Everything here is fresh, not frozen. Even Coca Cola is bottled locally.

I walked around the area for a while, to see what was around, and encountered many street merchants. They are very aggressive salespeople. I guess I look like a tourist.

When I got back to my room, I started the water for a shower. I took literally 5 minutes for the water to turn from ice-cold to hot, and when I finally got in, it felt scalding. Or was I that cold? One of the best things in life is a hot shower, topped only by a hot bath. Or sleeping in on a cold, rainy morning.

When I woke up this morning, the room was freezing cold. The heavy blankets I had piled on top before I fell asleep kept me warm and toasty. I lay there drifting in and out of sleep, making plans for the day. Someone in the next room took a shower. Another group met noisly in the hallway outside my door before they took off on their adventure. I want to sleep until noon.

Around 8:30, I got up and went down for breakfast. Today is going to be a sight-seeing day. I can't wait to find out what everyone else around here already knows about Kathmandu.

The Sun is Like the Moon

All of Nepal is foggy throughout December and January. The fog is heaviest at night and early morning, gets brighter by noon, and never completely lifts during the day. This makes flying difficult. The fog is so thick, the sun is barely visible. The Nepalese say "The sun is like the moon".

We were able to fly for a couple of hours yesterday, the first time in a week. Even then, the visibility was bad, and no one was allowed to fly solo. It is perfect Instrument flying weather, because there is no turbulence, lighting, hail, or other hazards. Our airport, however, does not have an instrument approach. We have a GPS on board, so have created our own "instrument" approach to practice with. We still need visula conditions to get clearance from the tower.

They tell me by February or March it will be very windy. At least it won't be cloudy. And I can't wait to see what we do during the monsoons.

Because of the weather and the mountains, Nepal pilots are in high demand. Other countries, like India and China, are hiring all the experienced pilots. Soon Nepal will face a pilot shortage. By then, my students will be ready.

Food and Other Stuff

Nepali food is similar to Indian food. A typical Nepali meal is rice with a sauce or gravy, and some chicken pieces. They use a lot of different spices, and it is really very delicious.

Naveen, our cook, has worked at restaurants and motels, and is a very experienced cook. He only uses a 2-burner propane counter-top stove, but can make incredible meals. The people do not use ovens - only restaurants and hotels that cater to western tourists have ovens. Kitchens are all cupboards and maybe a space for the refirgerator. We have a microwave, but it's only the heat things. There is no microwave popcorn in Nepal.

Sometimes we get a craving for non-Nepali food and make requests. Naveen made spaghetti the other day. It looked just like real American spaghetti. But he used Nepali spices. It was different. Even mashed potatoes have spices in them.

Nepalese eat with their hands. Specifically, their right hand. They do not use tableware or napkins. Fortunately, they understand about westerners, and have provided silver for us. We use facial tissue for napkins.

Naveen grown popcorn in his backyard, and brought some to the house the other day. He cooked it on the propane stove in a wok. Nepali popcorn is crunchier than American popcorn, but it is very tasty. Naveen is accustomed to Americans using utensils to eat everything, so he considerately serves the popcorn with a spoon. He thinks popcorn was invented in Nepal.

Bathrooms are another issue. The traditional Nepali bathroom is a pit in the floor. They do not use toilet paper, but rather use a spray hose. I have not gotten the hang of this yet, and have trouble using the hose without getting my clothes wet. Fortunately for me, I have a western-style toilet and they provide all the paper I care to use. Very considerate people, these Nepalese.

There are no public bathrooms, either. If you need to go, just stop off the side of the road. When I am out walking, it is not unusual to see someone standing off the road facing out into the fields. No one pays attention. I haven't mastered the art of public urination, and just hold it until I get home.

The Brick Factory

Last night Paul got the truck and drove me to Shaven's brick factory. Shaven is an old friend and business partner of my boss (Shivendra). He lives most of the time in Narayangarat, and has a wife and son in Kathmandu. But his brick factory is on the other side of the jungle, about 30 miles from Bharatpur.

All buildings in the area are made of bricks, so factory owners are usually wealthy. The 300-year old process is fascinating. The bricks are hand formed, stamped, and stacked to dry. The raw bricks are then buried in the ground, under an elaborate dirt-covered scaffold, surrounded by wood, and fired. Two tall iron chimneys on a short dirt mound are all that mark the location of the brick. We walked over the ground while the bricks were being fired, and feet the heat through our shoes. The night was chilly, but our feet were warm.

Then Shaven took us to his tiny house that he uses while he visits the factory, and his cook prepared "snacks". Snacks to a Nepali are a meal for us. For snacks we had grilled chicken, beaten rice (rice that is cooked, then beaten until it is flat, then dried until it is crunchy), some kind of beans, and pickled cabbage salad (very spicy). And beer. We brought a bottle of whiskey to Shaven, which he really likes.

Two hours later, we had dinner. Boar that was cut up into small pieces, and cooked shish-kabob-style on an open fire. White rice with spicy gravy. And more pickled cabbage salad. And more beer.

We listened to Shaven tell his stories. He knows at least six languages, and was very active in politics at one time. He has a lot of connections. His brother is the chairman of his political party.

We drove back home late at night, and slept in late this morning.