Friday, May 16, 2008

House Lizards

Friendly lizards (geckos) come inside the house, looking for bugs. They amazingly cling to the ceiling and walls, moving rapidly and as easily as if along the floor. The doors and windows are not airtight, and the lizards find places to squeeze into a room. As the temperature rises, they become more active. They are considered good luck, so no one tries to get rid of them. If you try to catch one, they will lose their tail.

They must be territorial, because I have only seen 2 specific lizards in my room. Carl has noticed 3 in his, but his room is larger. I have named mine "Orville" and "Wilbur". They are about 5 inches long. They don't like the light, and when I have tried to take a flash photo of them, they scamper into hiding. Sometimes they make a clicking sound, but otherwise, they are silent.

One night I lay sleeping lightly, the rattling window air-conditioner was barely keeping up with the hot sticky air. The ceiling fan was on, and a light sheet defended me from the draft. Suddenly, I heard a faint noise and felt a plop on my hip. Freaking out, I shook the sheet, and in the moonlight I saw a lizard sailing through the air, arms and toes outstretched in terror. I heard him land on the floor, then silence. I pulled the sheet over my head and tried to go to sleep.

The next morning, there was no sign of lizard. By the afternoon, however, 2 lizards were chasing each other across the wall, undamaged. I guessed one of them had been on the ceiling and fell asleep when he lost his grip. They say it is bad luck to be hit by a lizard -- I wonder if this counts?

The last few days, I have spotted a couple of baby lizards, each about 2 inches long. As long as they eat the mosquitoes, they are welcome to stay.

My Flight Physical

A lightning storm took out our internet, and we just got it back yesterday. Progress moves slowly in Nepal.

CAAN (Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal) informed me a couple of weeks ago that my medical certificate has expired. In the States, it is good for a year, but here, since I am over 40, it's only good for 6 months.

So off I went to Kathmandu to get a physical. There have never been pilots in any other part of the country, so there has been no need for flight doctors anywhere but Kathmandu. Shivendra says I should be able to easily complete the physical and be back the next day. Nothing ever goes as planned, so I pack an extra shirt and pair of underwear.

I arrived at my appointment to see the doctor at 4:00. The doctor, a nice older gentlemen, looked over the letter authorizing me to get the medical, asked me for my medical forms. "What medical forms?" I asked. Before starting the exam, I must provide the CAAN forms. The doctor does not keep a supply on hand.

An appointment is made for 10:00 the next morning, and someone is sent to the CAAN office to obtain the forms. Why didn't they give us the forms when they gave us the authorization letter? Why do you need authorization to get a physical exam?

Nepal is considered a Kingdom, although the king is under house arrest, has no power, and will soon be kicked out to live "a civilian life". Meanwhile, no one is in charge, be everyone wants to prove how powerful they are by creating obstacles. The more obstacles, the more power.

The next morning, the doctor took my pulse, blood pressure, height and weight. He measured my weight on an old bathroom scale that wasn't set to zero. I took off my shoes and stepped on. The scale stopped at 75kg. That's over 160 pounds. I do not weigh that much. Not even close. The doctor didn't seem to think it unusual, and wrote '75k' on the form. Whatever. At least he got my height correct.

He filled out one section of the form, then told me I was to take an eye exam. Another doctor. I passed the exam, with my glasses. "What is your correction?" he asked. I wasn't sure. He looked at my lenses and informed me that I can't have a correction greater than +5.00 to pass a flight medical. He was unable to read my lenses, so he referred me to another doctor to obtain my exact prescription.

So off I go to an eye doctor in another part of town. He is with another patient. I sit and wait. There is no waiting room - I am in the same room as the doctor and his patient. The eye chart is on the wall. I quickly memorize it. "How long have you been flying?" he asked. 30 years. He figures I can fly OK with whatever prescription I have and OK's my eyesight. He signs the vision section of the form.

Back to the hospital to see the Ear-Nose-Throat doctor. He is gone for the day, must come back tomorrow. While I am there, however, they take my blood.

That evening I walk around the Thamel section of Kathmandu and run into a couple of Americans. We meet for dinner at a really good Thai restaurant and have an interesting conversation.

The next day, I wait for a call confirming my appointment with the ENK doctor. Around noon I get a call - the appointment is at 4:00. At that time, I go back to the clinic and only have to wait about half-an-hour. The ENK exam took about 3 minutes. Another section of the form was signed off. Then it was decided I needed a chest X-ray. Would I like to wait for the results? Yes. Lungs and ribs looked normal. Oh, by the way, I need an EKG. I get that done, and I am finally complete.

The next day I return to Bharatpur, while the results and forms are submitted to CAAN. (Why do they need the medical data? There is no medical privacy in Nepal.)

A couple of days later, I was informed I didn't have enough tests. I must go back to Kathmandu. I am not sure if the Doctor was confused about what tests to prescribe, or if CAAN arbitrarily decided to change the rules (as they often do). The result is the same.

I am on the next flight to Kathmandu, as I have an appointment at 4:00 that afternoon. (What is it with 4:00 appointment times?)

At the clinic, the doctor has not arrived. I wait for an hour. He looks over my forms and results, and realizes I need the "over 40" tests. No eating or drinking past midnight. I need to return tomorrow with an empty stomach. 10:00.

I arrive the next morning. Starving. They take my blood again, this time testing for cholesterol. I would have to return later for the results. (My cholesterol was 'optimal').

I am informed I need a treadmill test and another ECG. They can't do that here, so we have to make an appointment at another hospital. You guessed it - 4:00. No eating at least 3 hours before.

I eat a light lunch, then wait around the Shivani Air office (mostly napping) until it's time to go.

I arrive at what is called "the best private hospital in Nepal". It's clean. And expensive. These tests cost more than 10,000 rupees. I am told to change into a gown. The women's changing room in down the hall. After changing, I walk back down the hall and sit in the crowded waiting area. In a hospital gown. After about half-an-hour, the cardiologist arrives and I am ushered into the treadmill room. There are three beds and 2 treadmills. A man is lying in one of the beds, and I am instructed to lie down in another. People enter the room, patients waiting their turn, nurses, orderlies. No privacy.

The doctor takes a sonogram of my heart - very interesting. "A normal young heart", he says. Young? I am 55, but maybe it looks good compared to Nepali hearts.

Next, I am hooked up to the treadmill. Walk for 9 minutes, at different speeds for 3 minutes each. Let them know if I feel any pain or discomfort. I complete the test. I am breathing hard. "I could not do this test for 9 minutes," the doctor says. He is about 35-40, nice looking, not overweight. Is he kidding? I can't tell. I passed.

I head back to the original clinic to pick up my blood test, then stop at CAAN to drop everything off. Everyone is in a meeting. I leave the stuff with the Shivani Air people, and catch the next flight home. They will let me know if I am qualified in a couple of days. I passed all the tests with flying colors, so I am not sure what CAAN can object to. I am still waiting.